迪威網(wǎng)友5cea49
發(fā)布時間：2021/1/18 18:27:00
Updated 4/27/2020 (details at bottom of summary)
WOULD LOVE TO SEE MORE MAKES, PLEASE POST A MAKE IF YOU DO GO
THROUGH WITH THIS.
DISCLAIMER: my printer has been heavily modified and there may be things that won't work on a stock CR-10 or Tevo Tornado. Please plan ahead make sure you cover all your bases. This mod probably isn't for people new to 3d printing.
This is a set made to replace your X and Z axis with linear rails. I did this on a CR-10 but I'm sure it can be adapter to many 2020-based cartesian printe. Just get the appropriate length rails.
requires:
1 x 400mm rail with a mgn12h carriage
2 x 500mm rails with mgn12c carriage
-(or 2 x 500mm rails with mgn12H carriage.
2 x Delrin Anti-Backlash Silent Nut for 8mm T8x8 Lead Screw Trapezoidal ACME
Link to item on manufacturer webpage:
-(or use the adapter "Lead Screw POM Nut Adapter " it's untested but should work).
Many M3 and M4 screws and nuts.
The carriage is modular but I've only made an adapter for a Titan Aero. It's should not be hard to attach just about anything to it since it's just 6 screws. More pictures of this setup (
Lastly I want to reiterated that I can't guarantee everything will work on your CR-10 or Tevo Tornado. My printer has been heavily modified. One example off the top of my head, You'll have to figure out endstops on your own, I'm using a Duet Wifi for seor-less homing.
There may be far more things that you'll have to figure out but I wanted to share all the work I've done.
The idler mount to idler clearance is pretty tight. I recommend using sand paper to smooth it out until it slides easily smoothly and doesn't get stuck.
[UPDATE] Created a purpose built idleteioner to go with this.
[UPDATE2] added "" with a properly sized recess for the stepper collar to fit into.
[UPDATE3] Added a brace/guard around the front left on the X axis. Also added a couple rende.
[UPDATE4] Added an option to use MGN12H for the Z direction itead of MGN12C.
[UPDATE5] Added "Lead Screw bearing " it was difficult to print in PETG as one piece so I split it in two pieces. This veion prevents the lead-screw and bearing from rattling around while printing.
[UPDATE6] Added POM nut adapte, 18mm hole spacing and 16mm hole spacing. This should allow you to skip buying the one I listed.
[UPDATE7] Added x-idler which fixes some tight clearance issues.
[UPDATE8] Added step files per request (they may be out of date compared to some of the updated parts, did not have time to upload each and every piece so I used an old assembled veion, hopefully that enough to help some people who needed to do mods.)
[UPDATE9] Added a compact X carriage that I specifically needed for an aluminum mount for the titan aero. The compact mount is a pretty rough design but I tested it and it works.
-Aluminum mount:
[UPDATE10] Added a optional pillow block mount for the Z lead screws. Unfortunately with the current design you will probably only be able to use this on top only and not both sides of screw.
STL name: Pillow_Block_Z-Idler_v1.stl
Link for pillow block: (option: KFL08-8MM)
Requires some M5 screws, nuts and T-nuts.
[UPDATE11 - 4/27/2020]
New beefy X Idler! So my second printer is a Voron 2.2 and I really liked how overkill their idle were so I modifed one to use with my X-axis. I'll also post something for the Y axis eventually but it need a bit more work. Check out voron if you're interested in a extremely nice fully enclosed FDM printer:
This idler will require a few things:
1X - 5mm diameter metal shaft (30mm long)
2X - F6952 bearings
1X - GT2 20Tooth Pulley (5mm ID)
M5 washe for alignment
Some m3 screws, nuts and washe.
Important FYI - I only printed this new idler in ABS and ABS I don't know of PETG or PLA will work. ABS also has a bit of shrink (about half a percent) , so parts may not fit as intended with other materials unless scaled down. eSUN ABS would let you print this on an open printer.
WOULD LOVE TO SEE MORE MAKES, PLEASE POST A MAKE IF YOU DO GO
THROUGH WITH THIS.
DISCLAIMER: my printer has been heavily modified and there may be things that won't work on a stock CR-10 or Tevo Tornado. Please plan ahead make sure you cover all your bases. This mod probably isn't for people new to 3d printing.
This is a set made to replace your X and Z axis with linear rails. I did this on a CR-10 but I'm sure it can be adapter to many 2020-based cartesian printe. Just get the appropriate length rails.
requires:
1 x 400mm rail with a mgn12h carriage
2 x 500mm rails with mgn12c carriage
-(or 2 x 500mm rails with mgn12H carriage.
2 x Delrin Anti-Backlash Silent Nut for 8mm T8x8 Lead Screw Trapezoidal ACME
Link to item on manufacturer webpage:
-(or use the adapter "Lead Screw POM Nut Adapter " it's untested but should work).
Many M3 and M4 screws and nuts.
The carriage is modular but I've only made an adapter for a Titan Aero. It's should not be hard to attach just about anything to it since it's just 6 screws. More pictures of this setup (
Lastly I want to reiterated that I can't guarantee everything will work on your CR-10 or Tevo Tornado. My printer has been heavily modified. One example off the top of my head, You'll have to figure out endstops on your own, I'm using a Duet Wifi for seor-less homing.
There may be far more things that you'll have to figure out but I wanted to share all the work I've done.
The idler mount to idler clearance is pretty tight. I recommend using sand paper to smooth it out until it slides easily smoothly and doesn't get stuck.
[UPDATE] Created a purpose built idleteioner to go with this.
[UPDATE2] added "" with a properly sized recess for the stepper collar to fit into.
[UPDATE3] Added a brace/guard around the front left on the X axis. Also added a couple rende.
[UPDATE4] Added an option to use MGN12H for the Z direction itead of MGN12C.
[UPDATE5] Added "Lead Screw bearing " it was difficult to print in PETG as one piece so I split it in two pieces. This veion prevents the lead-screw and bearing from rattling around while printing.
[UPDATE6] Added POM nut adapte, 18mm hole spacing and 16mm hole spacing. This should allow you to skip buying the one I listed.
[UPDATE7] Added x-idler which fixes some tight clearance issues.
[UPDATE8] Added step files per request (they may be out of date compared to some of the updated parts, did not have time to upload each and every piece so I used an old assembled veion, hopefully that enough to help some people who needed to do mods.)
[UPDATE9] Added a compact X carriage that I specifically needed for an aluminum mount for the titan aero. The compact mount is a pretty rough design but I tested it and it works.
-Aluminum mount:
[UPDATE10] Added a optional pillow block mount for the Z lead screws. Unfortunately with the current design you will probably only be able to use this on top only and not both sides of screw.
STL name: Pillow_Block_Z-Idler_v1.stl
Link for pillow block: (option: KFL08-8MM)
Requires some M5 screws, nuts and T-nuts.
[UPDATE11 - 4/27/2020]
New beefy X Idler! So my second printer is a Voron 2.2 and I really liked how overkill their idle were so I modifed one to use with my X-axis. I'll also post something for the Y axis eventually but it need a bit more work. Check out voron if you're interested in a extremely nice fully enclosed FDM printer:
This idler will require a few things:
1X - 5mm diameter metal shaft (30mm long)
2X - F6952 bearings
1X - GT2 20Tooth Pulley (5mm ID)
M5 washe for alignment
Some m3 screws, nuts and washe.
Important FYI - I only printed this new idler in ABS and ABS I don't know of PETG or PLA will work. ABS also has a bit of shrink (about half a percent) , so parts may not fit as intended with other materials unless scaled down. eSUN ABS would let you print this on an open printer.
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