DDW 羅寧 3D 打印機 （希克托普 3DP-12）

UPDATE 11/13/20Every file is now up to date. Only some parts are new like the X carriage parts, the TL-Smoothe holder, and the LCD cover. I'm 99% sure that this is it for this printer.
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Ronin 3D Printer
24V
Bed size 210x270x225mm (XYZ)
Integrated lead screw Z stepper moto
Filament run out seor
BL-Touch seor
TL-Smoother
Auto bed leveling
Auto cool down when the heat sink fan fails
Auto shutdown after the print is done
Ambient temperature monitor
Strong 75% infill ABS Parts
Spool holder with ball bearings
Easy cable chain system
Latest video: 3D Printer Modify 3 | Hictop 3DP-12 Veion 3
This printer is now very stiff, fairy accurate, and has little to no play. However, there is a flaw in this style of 3D printer. With the increasing weight on the Y axis, there will be more ringing artifacts on the print. You can avoid ringing artifacts by printing slower on the skin, 15mm or less for this printer, but when the print gets heavier, the ringing artifacts may be more visible.
Software: CuraLayer Height: 0.2mmInfill Deity: 75%Materials: ABSWall Thickness: 1.2mm, 4mmTop/Bottom Thickness: Same as Wall ThicknessFilter Out Tiny Gaps: ? or ? as you see fit
Print with AMZ3D ABS.
Nozzle Temp: 250°C
Bed Temp: 110°C
Bed Adhesion: Like PLA, use glue sticks.
Enclosure: Temperature iide the box will be about 60°C after printing for a while.
Infill Deity 5%, Wall Thickness 1.2mm, Top/Bottom Thickness 1.2mm for this file only:
DDW_RN-3DP27_Filament_Holder_50
The only cable carrier file that needs brim:
DDW_RN-3DP34_X_Cable_Carrier_4.stl
Duplicate these:
2x DDW_RN-3DP22_Z_Nuts_Holder.stl
34x DDW_RN-3DP30_X_Cable_Carrier_Iert.stl
18x DDW_RN-3DP32_X_Cable_Carrier_2.stl
14x DDW_RN-3DP38_Y_Cable_Carrier_Iert.stl
12x DDW_RN-3DP40_Y_Cable_Carrier_2.stl
12x DDW_RN-3DP44_Frame_Cable_Clip.stl
3x DDW_RN-3DP45_Frame_Cable_Clip_For_Ribbo.stl
2x DDW_RN-3DP50_GT2_Belt_Teioner.stl
2x DDW_RN-3DP51_GT2_Belt_Teioner_Pusher.stl
Must do:
Move Z axis frame assembly from 165mm(default) to 155mm.
Adjust the stepper motor current on the main board to X=0.8, Y=0.8, Z=1.0V, and E0=0.8V. Watch how to adjust the current here.
After updating firmware, go to Control, Restore settings, and then Store memory.
Use some foam from the foam brush for the dust filter.
Use soldering iron to press in the brass nuts.
Must use BL-Touch seor.
Must use filament run out seor.
Must use 324MM integrated lead screw Z stepper moto.
Set Auto Cool Down:
Press and hold Set button.
Press Set button again 1 more time to get to P1.
Press both Set and C/F butto at the same time.
Keep pressing C/F button until you get to 0.1.
Wait 5 seconds.
Press Set button, then press and hold Set button until you get to 100.
Wait 5 seconds and then you're done! The printer will stop printing and cool down when the temperature reaches 100°C at the heat sink.
Printer Info:
E-Steps: 94.4962144403
Width: 210
Depth: 270
Height: 225
Firmware: Marlin RC8
Software:
Arduino (for updating firmware)
Cura 3.6 (for generating 3D printing codes)
FreeCAD (for designing 3D parts)
Pick one 3D printer to start off with:
HICTOP 3D Printer Aluminum Frame 24V
Athorbot A01 3D Printer Aluminum Frame 24V
Required Items:Z Seor
1x BLTouch Seor With 1 Meter Exteion
Plugs
3x 2p Spring Connector (for quick fan replacement)
1x 6 Pi Screw Terminal Block
Z Axis
2x 17HS4401S M8x8 324MM Integrated Lead Screw Z Stepper Motor
2x T8 Anti-Backlash Spring Loaded Nut
2x 8x12x3.5mm Bearing MR128-ZZ (for Z lead screw top mounts)
Extruder
1x V6 Heat Sink Short Distance 1.75mm M7 (for direct drive)
1x V6 Throat 4.1mm Through (M7 throat, M6 heat block)
1x PTFE Teflon Tube 2MM ID 4MM OD For 1.75MM Filament
1x Extruder 0.4mm Nozzle 1.75mm
4x 30mm x 10mm 24V Fan
1x 2M NTC 100K Thermistor
Bed
1x 3/32" T x 10" W x 12" L Clear Glass Sheet
1x Aluminum Y Carriage Anodized Plate Upgrade V2
7x SC8AJ 8mm Adjustable Bearing (for both X and Y carriage, don't compress these bearings too tight, in fact you don't have to tight them much at all)
4x M3 Thumb Nut
4x 15mm 5/8" Binder Clip
Wires
1x 800mm Stepper Motor Cable Exteion (for X motor)
1x 1500mm Stepper Motor Cable Exteion for E motor
1x 1500mm 24V Heater Exteion
1x 24 AWG Wire Exteion (for fa)
Thermostats
1x Digital Computer Thermometer
1x Digital LED Microcomputer Thermostat
1x NTC 10K Thermistor (for microcomputer thermostat)
Heat Sinks
11x 9x9x12mm Heat Sink (for stepper drive)
26x 20x20x10mm Heat Sink (16 for TL-Smoother, 9 for stepper moto, and 1 for the mainboard)
4x 40x40x11mm Heat Sink (for stepper moto)
1x 25x20x0.20mm Thermal Tape
Othe
8x M2x12 Hex Socket Screw (for belt teione, filament stand runout seor mount, filament runout seor case)
17x M3x6 Set Screw (for locking XYZ rods, Teflon tube, the plug on the X carriage, bed plug, belt teione, and shutdown switch)
19x M3x12 Hex Socket Screw
10x M3x20 Hex Socket Screw
15x M3x25 Hex Socket Screw
9x M3x30 Hex Socket Screw
1x M4x10 Hex Socket Screw (for extruder X lever bearing)
12x M2x3x3.2 Brass Iert Nut
40x M3x3x4.3 Brass Iert Nut
31x M3x3x5.3 Brass Iert Nut
2x GT2 3mm Bore 20Teeth Aluminum Toothed Timing Belt Idler
1x GE4E 4x12x5mm Spherical Bearing
1x MR52ZZ 2x5x2.5mm Bearing (for runout seor)
2x 6902 2 15x28x7MM Bearing (for filament holder)
4x TL-Smoother Plus
1x Aluminum Tape (use this as a heat shield for the fan ducts and BL-Touch cover)
1x Super Glue 33106 (glue the aluminum tape to prevent it from pealing off)
Optional Items:
1x 16 AWG Wire Exteion (for converter and heated bed)
4x Linear Bearings LM8UU 8MM (good ones will not feel rough when sliding, most of them in the market are pretty bad)
1x GT2 Belt
1x SanDisk Extreme 16GB SDHC UHS-I Card
1x 3D Printer ID5mm OD11mm 26 Tooth Half Linear Stainless Extruder Drive Gear
1x 8 x 3 mm Round Magnet (for easy/removable AC-DC power cover fan replacement)
1x 3M Mounting Tape
Tools:
X-Acto X3201 Knife
X-Tronic 3020-XTS Soldering Iron
Soldering Wire 63-37 1mm
Desoldering Bulb
Heat Shrink Assorted
4 Pc Adjustable Wrench Set
5 in. Curved Jaw Locking Plie
WONDER MASTER 4.2V Electric Screwdriver Kit
36 Pc 3 in. Screwdriver Bit Set
Glass Cutter
Snap Ring Plie
Note: You're already getting these in the "Machine Settings RN-3DP Cura 3.6" file.
;Start G-code
M107 ;Start with the fan off
G21 ;Metric values
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G28 ;Homing
M117 Auto X leveling... ;Put message on LCD screen
G1 Z15 F1800 ;--Level X rods (F value is mm/minute)
G0 X210 Y265 F15000 ;--Level X rods
G1 Z235 F1800 ;--Level X rods
G1 Z15 F1800 ;--Level X rods
G0 X25 Y68 F15000 ;Coming back for homing fast
G28 ;Homing
G92 Z0. ;Z offset lower = Z pos, lift = Z neg
M117 Auto bed leveling... ;Put message on LCD screen
G29 ;Run auto bed level during cool bed tempeture
G1 Z150 F1800 ;Move Z up
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp before proceeding
G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp before proceeding
G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message
M25 ;Wait for user
M117 Ready to print? ;Put message on LCD screen
G0 X105 F15000 ;Move X to center
G92 E0 ;Zero the extruder
G1 E10 F250 ;Extrude filament to nozzle
G92 E0 ;Zero the extruder
M117 Printing... ;Put message on LCD screen
;End G-code
M104 S0 ;Extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;Heated bed heater off
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-10 F30000 ;Retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z 15 F1800 ;Move Z up a bit
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G0 X210 Y265 F15000 ;--Auto shutdown - Move bed to the front
G1 Z235 F1800 ;--Auto shutdown - Move move Z up all the way
M117 Auto shutdown... ;--Auto shutdown - Put message on LCD screen
G4 P600000 ;--Auto shutdown - Delay 5 minutes for the hotend to cool down
G1 X215 ;--Auto shutdown - Move X to trigger the power switch
M84 ;Steppe off
Weird Moves
Problem: Printer keeps making random moves during print using SD Card.
Solution 1: Try using a new eBay Amazon SanDisk Extreme 16GB SDHC SD Card.
Solution 2: Try using shorter 10 pin ribbon cables. 45CM or shorter is a safe length. The longer the cable, the more erro you will get.
Solution 3: The SD card reader might be bad. Buy a new eBay Amazon 2004 LCD SD Card Reader.
Problem: If your HICTOP printer is making random weird moves and shutting down when using SD card, it mea that part of the LCD screen is touching the metal piece that is touching the Y step motor. If you have the old LCD screen that is all metal, you will have this problem. For your information, HICTOP now provides the metal cover that comes with plastic nuts to separate the LCD screen and the metal cover to fix this problem.
Solution: Remove the LCD screen from the printer frame and put it aside. Avoid the LCD ribbon wires touching the step motor wires.
Main Board & SD Card Reader
Problem: From April 2017, HICTOP now has a built-in SD card reader on the main board. Thus, the SD card reader on the LCD is no longer usable.
Solution: Buy an Amazon MKS Base V1.6 3D Printer Controller Board to replace it.
LCD Doesn't Work
Problem: LCD doesn't work when plugging in to the main board.
Solution: Some Chinese MKS Base V1.4 or V1.5 main boards have the EXP2 and EXP1 upside down, so just flip the EXP2 and EXP1 plugs upside down and force plug in accordingly.
Loud Converter
If your converter's fan is making a loud noise, simply replace the fan with a new one here eBay Amazon 24V 60x60x15mm Fan.
Uneven Bed ABS
Problem: If you experience uneven bed when printing ABS out of nowhere, in this case the proximity seor's temperature matte. If the seor is cool during the preheat, given that the X carriage is 100mm or more above the bed, when the seor is doing G29 or probing the bed, the cool seor will get warmer and warmer throughout the bed and the seor will give out inaccurate numbe as its temperature changes.
Solution: Do Auto Home, and then preheat ABS. In this case the seor should be about 15mm above the bed and getting warmed up by the bed's temperature. Once the seor starts to prob the bed, its temperature shouldn't change wildly and it should give out accurate numbe.
Solution: Or always do G29 or probing the bed before heating the bed.
Solution: Make sure the counteinks on the bed are good so the screws won't be pushing the glass up causing uneven bed.
ABS Bubbling
Problem: ABS filament is bubbling when extruding.
Solution: Bake the ABS filament in the oven at 175F for 1 hour or 2 hou and then try printing. It really depends on how much moisture is in the filament. The more moisture, the longer the bake time will have to be.
Solution: If you don't have an oven, buy a eBay Amazon dehydrator and dehydrate the ABS filament overnight with 158F or 70C. Cut big enough hole on 3 trays, and you should be able to fit 2 1kg spools in there.
PLA Clogging Nozzle, Heat Creep
Problem: PLA keeps clogging at the throat even with new nozzle and new throat.
Solution 1: Check the heat sink cooling fan, you may need to replace it.
Solution 2: If it's still clogging, try increase the extruder spring teion.
Solution 3: If it's still clogging, try blowing cool air through the printer.
Solution 4: If it's still clogging, try printing at a lower temperature like 200C or 190C.
Solution 5: If it's still clogging, throw away your filament, and buy a better quality filament.
Proximity Seor
Problem: Proximity seor wire(s) get broken iide. After a while these wires do get broken especially around the extruder flexing (the fit curve).
Problem: It might even be serious like it would actually blow up your main board.
Solution: Buy new proximity seor.
Heat Drops Randomly
Problem: Heat drops and the printer stops.
Solution: Check the heat seor wires, they might be broken iide somewhere. Just replace the seor would be the best solution.
Weak Z Moto, Repeat or Dipping on Fit Layer
Problem: Z moto keep dropping on fit layer.
Solution: Check to see if the fan for the TL-Smoother boards is still working. Also, clean up any build up dust on the boards by using an electrical cleaner spray and blow them off again with compressed air.
Random Over Extrusion
Problem: Random over extrusion on some laye at the same spots every print.
Solution 1: Try different filament from different brand, the one you're using might have an incoistency problem.
Solution 2: Try printing using USB cable and see if the over extrusion will still occur. If it does, then there is possibly a problem with SD card, SD card reader or the main board.
Nozzle Keeps Clogging
Problem: Nozzle keeps clogging, the drive gear keeps spinning, and the filament doesn't move.
Solution: The extruder spring lost its teion, maybe due to a deformed extruder X lever. Increase the extruder spring teion, replace the nozzle, and start printing.
Solution: Also check for utable temperature. It may just got too cold to extrude, then got clogged, and then back to normal temp.
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