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發(fā)布時間：2021/1/29 18:06:00
Last update May 5, 2019, 6PM Eastern (US Time)
New front cover and part fan nozzle (shroud)
This is for Prusa's new 's' models with new filament seor technology among other things. It has been tested in the following configuratio:
MK2.5s
MK3s
MK2.5s w/MMU2s
MK3s w/MMU2s
This is an update to a previous veion.
EXTRUDER BODY - There are two veio of the extruder body. One that uses the stock 40mm cooling fan and one that will allow you to use the 25mm Mosquito cooling fan. The 25mm veion has indented mounting screws and requires two 8mm screws vs. standard 10mm.
PART FAN NOZZLE - Prusa has been reducing the gap of their nozzles with each iteration to undetandably optimize for E3D heat block. It is now too narrow for the Mosquito. I had to split, then widen the part, so you will have to print this new one as well as the extruder cover as it has an indent required for proper alignment. I printed it in PETG and have been printing in PETG (250c) without any issues. Remember to remove the print support before italling!
EXTRUDER COVER - There are two veio, one blank and one with the indented word 'HOT'. If you have an MMU2 then you can use the provided lette to print with the cover to produce a cover like that in the picture above.
This thing replaces the stock E3Dv6 hotend on a stock Prusa MK2.5s or MK3s with Slice Engineering’s Mosquito itallation uses the existing mounts and 3mm hardware found on the Prusa. You will need to provide a short (approximately 40mm) piece of PTFE tubing to complete the itall.
PETG - 0.2 mm layer - 20% Infill
It is highly recommended that you use a new thermistor and heater cartridge. The existing ones in the E3Dv6 hotend have been bent 90 degrees and lay alongside the heat block which can make them brittle over time. The Mosquito has the cables coming out straight as they were manufactured and they do not touch nor run along the heat block.
In the 'old' design the PTFE tube was kept in position merely by friction. It could, and did, shift up/down especially when I tested with MMU2. In this design the PTFE is set agait an internal beveled collar in the extruder body. In order to fit without sliding up/down you will probably need to bevel the outside of the PTFE tube where it ierts into the Mosquito to minimize any gaps. I spin it in a piece of sandpaper. You then need to slide it into the Mosquito while it is mounted in the Extruder Body. From there you can trim it to the precise length as pictured using an exacto knife. After that, you may need to (should) create an internal bevel in the top of the now sized tube. I just spin the exacto blade iide the tube to accomplish that. Check your filament path at each step to 'feel' for any snags.
You need to 'punch out' the membrane in the Mosquito T-mount holes. They are there just to eure a smooth overhang and are only one layer thick.
You will need to rotate parts to print correctly. They are in virtual assembly orientation now but I will align to print bed once parts are final.
DO NOT FORGET to use the official Prusa documents to make sure you put in all capture nuts, especially for the 45 degree fan mount and the nozzle, BEFORE any assembly. The three Noctua fan mount screws just thread into the plastic.
MK2.5s w/MMU2s Video at:
MK2.5s Video at:
New front cover and part fan nozzle (shroud)
This is for Prusa's new 's' models with new filament seor technology among other things. It has been tested in the following configuratio:
MK2.5s
MK3s
MK2.5s w/MMU2s
MK3s w/MMU2s
This is an update to a previous veion.
EXTRUDER BODY - There are two veio of the extruder body. One that uses the stock 40mm cooling fan and one that will allow you to use the 25mm Mosquito cooling fan. The 25mm veion has indented mounting screws and requires two 8mm screws vs. standard 10mm.
PART FAN NOZZLE - Prusa has been reducing the gap of their nozzles with each iteration to undetandably optimize for E3D heat block. It is now too narrow for the Mosquito. I had to split, then widen the part, so you will have to print this new one as well as the extruder cover as it has an indent required for proper alignment. I printed it in PETG and have been printing in PETG (250c) without any issues. Remember to remove the print support before italling!
EXTRUDER COVER - There are two veio, one blank and one with the indented word 'HOT'. If you have an MMU2 then you can use the provided lette to print with the cover to produce a cover like that in the picture above.
This thing replaces the stock E3Dv6 hotend on a stock Prusa MK2.5s or MK3s with Slice Engineering’s Mosquito itallation uses the existing mounts and 3mm hardware found on the Prusa. You will need to provide a short (approximately 40mm) piece of PTFE tubing to complete the itall.
PETG - 0.2 mm layer - 20% Infill
It is highly recommended that you use a new thermistor and heater cartridge. The existing ones in the E3Dv6 hotend have been bent 90 degrees and lay alongside the heat block which can make them brittle over time. The Mosquito has the cables coming out straight as they were manufactured and they do not touch nor run along the heat block.
In the 'old' design the PTFE tube was kept in position merely by friction. It could, and did, shift up/down especially when I tested with MMU2. In this design the PTFE is set agait an internal beveled collar in the extruder body. In order to fit without sliding up/down you will probably need to bevel the outside of the PTFE tube where it ierts into the Mosquito to minimize any gaps. I spin it in a piece of sandpaper. You then need to slide it into the Mosquito while it is mounted in the Extruder Body. From there you can trim it to the precise length as pictured using an exacto knife. After that, you may need to (should) create an internal bevel in the top of the now sized tube. I just spin the exacto blade iide the tube to accomplish that. Check your filament path at each step to 'feel' for any snags.
You need to 'punch out' the membrane in the Mosquito T-mount holes. They are there just to eure a smooth overhang and are only one layer thick.
You will need to rotate parts to print correctly. They are in virtual assembly orientation now but I will align to print bed once parts are final.
DO NOT FORGET to use the official Prusa documents to make sure you put in all capture nuts, especially for the 45 degree fan mount and the nozzle, BEFORE any assembly. The three Noctua fan mount screws just thread into the plastic.
MK2.5s w/MMU2s Video at:
MK2.5s Video at:
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